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Lucky Peak / West Ridge - Early Spring FA
8hrs return

     Date: April 15 2007

Lucky Peak West Ridge

Weather:  Overcast Rain, Snow
Wind:  Moderate

    First Known Ascent - This peak had been on my radar for many years because when I started looking for any info on the mountain I couldn't find anything. Why was this mountain called Lucky?? Could it be because of minerals, could it be hiding something, or was it possessed by friendly spirits? I found nothing on how it got its name and absolutely nothing for a climbing or surveying history. This now makes Lucky even more intriguing. I wanted to find out any secrets the slopes were hiding and possibly be the first to stand on her summit. At the time, Lucky had very little logging on its slopes. Unfortunately, this is not the case for the other surrounding peaks, which have seen their fair share of recent logging. I knew the route I had plotted out was going to be bushy and steep. Sasha was the first one who came to mind so I asked him if he wanted to join me. He was all over it as he thought we might be the first to try to tackle her slopes and hidden cliff bands. The start of the route was heavy brush with a fair amount of blow downs. Just above 400m we ran across a small Heli block which was a pain to cross so I made a waypoint to make sure we missed it on the descent. Past that it was more steep bush but blow downs were a non-issue. At 900m we finally gained the main ridge, which led us over to the summit cap. By now we were both soaked from the wet brush and now we hit the snow level making things cooler. Forging onward the terrain leveled off a little. We passed by a few house sized boulders that were largely hidden and swallowed up by the forest, except for one apartment sized boulder which I had noted from past recons in the valley far below when I was looking for routes up. I told Sasha about its general location and when we ran across the boulder we were sure we were on the right track. Around 1100m I knew we had to change course by 90 degrees and head due north so when we arrived at the spot Sasha pulled out the rope in case we needed it for the final shoot to the summit cap. By now the clouds had rolled in with a slight drizzle making visibility next to nil. Oh the joys of climbing the Wet Coast of Vancouver Island. The terrain was now fairly steep and exposed which was the reason for having the rope on hand. Luckily though the snow was soft and deep which made it easy to burrow in to the snow for stability. We gained elevation by doing a series of "green belays" (pull ups using tree limbs or branches which might hold one's weight) for approximately the last 100m to the summit cap. Once on the cap, the summit was a lot larger than I first thought. There was a large pointed rock, which I first stood on thinking it was the top. However, when the clouds lifted for a short spell we quickly noticed that the summit was another 100m north. Once on the true summit I felt a warming sensation pass over me, which made me a little goofy as seen in the picture named "Lucky Peak Shuffle". I'd finally made it and still to this day it is one of my biggest achievements. Update: After researching this peak with the Alpine Club of Canada we have confirmed that our climb was the first known ascent of Lucky.

Click for Pictures

   How to get there??     Head west on Hwy 4 towards Tofino. Turn left off Hwy at the Toquart/Salmon Beach and drive towards Toquart Bay. From there go another 10kms down the mainline heading to Toquart Lake. Once over the Toquart River bridge drive only 1km and turn right up Lucky Creek Main. Drive up and park at GPS waypoint.

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