Mt Klitsa, North Face, Summer ascent
click to view ---> North Face with Snow
Time: 5 hrs to summit from vehicle
Date: Aug 25 2005
Weather:Sunny & Warm
Trail/Route conditions:Good, lots of soild rock. Well worth the trip up
Start by hike up the main trail which eventually leads up to the 1st Lake in Gibson Wilderness Area. Before hoofing up the long hill just below the lake head off the main trail and bush bash down to the main creek bed draining the valley. When doing the route creek bed was dry so it made for easy crossing over to main drain. Once at the bottom of the route there are numerous way to go up all depending on how the party your going with feels. The first section can be climbed but we whimped out and climbed the steep bush just left and then got back into the gully. There's no point doing a route description from here on up to where you leave the gully as there is too many variants. I'll instead just give you a very brief description of how we did it. The bottom half of the gully we tried to climbed most of the harder rock moves only passing by a few. THe upper part of the gully we took the left chute and climb some nice lay backed rock and one exposed gully before reaching the base of Mt Klista's cliff band. From there we stayed as close as possible to the cliff climbing some steep very bush sections to be able gain access to Klita's North/West Ridge. From there we climb up the ridge to the summit and descended the Standard route to the 1st Lake.
After climbing this route now in both winter & summer conditions I'm not sure which I like better Rock or Snow. I'm a snow lover but .... I think I'll be back to climb this route again in the summer. This time I'll bring my climbing shoes and fag bag "chalk"
How to get To There Starting from the Port Alberni's Info Center. Drive 38km West on hwy 4# towards Ucluelet turn left onto logging directly across from Doran Lake road. Drive another 1km and park at roads end which is only 200m from the North side of the closed Taylor River Logging Bridge. Cross bridge turn right head another 150m then turn left onto branch 522. You can now just recently drive up branch 522 so to save almost 1.5km walk and a bit of elevation stay on Hwy 4 until passing Taylor River Hwy bridge and take the first left turn onto gravel. Drive 5kms down south side of Taylor River before taking a right turn up Branch 522 from here it is a 1km 4x4 up to the start of the hike on the overgrown road.
Stay tune in for more adventures at Island hikes